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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 1/15/2010
Posts: 0
Location: Haverhill MA
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I am no woodworker and try not to pretend to be one. I did however take wood shop in HS. :)
I have three black walnut trees that are about to be taken down. I want to find someone who can use the trees for something other than fire wood.
I live in the north shore/merrimac valley area of MA. I have no way of transporting the logs.
I am working with a guy who has a portable band saw and may have him mill the logs on site, leave them to dry.....
How do I get the word out to woodworkers, hobbyists, schools that I have this wood and am willing to sell, trade or donate (tax write off?) ???
I think it would be a nice all around project for a school/class to work from the log to air dried lumber, while waiting the months to air dry they could work out the basics on cheaper wood (cardboard someone suggested in another post) then make a final project that they can bring home or sell at the end of the year with the higher quality black walnut. But again I am not a woodworker or teacher, so please go easy on your responses!
If anyone has any other ideas or suggestions, please input here:
THANKS!
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 10/28/2009
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Location: Lebanon, ME
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What diameter are the logs? Length?
Do you have pics?
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Rank: Newbie
Groups: Member
Joined: 1/15/2010
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Location: Haverhill MA
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I have not measured them yet but I believe one is about 16 inches the other two may be 12 inches each. They are about 60-100 years old (my estimate).
and Yes I do have a picture. How do I upload to this site?
http://cid-6b1f37f0d86301ea.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/3%20Black%20Walnut%20Trees/trees.jpg
http://cid-6b1f37f0d86301ea.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/3%20Black%20Walnut%20Trees/trees%20x%20marks%20tree.jpg
This photo, above, has an "X" (3 in total) under the trees that are going to be taken down.
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 6/1/2006
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Location: Connecticut
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I'd be very interested in discussing this with you. I run a high school general woodworking and furniture design program in northeastern Connecticut, and we could make very good use of your walnut.
Keith Landin
Woodshop instructor, Woodstock Academy
"Mens tua sit implementum acerrium in fabrica"
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 2/27/2006
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If I lived a lot closer, I would be all over it --
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 8/21/2007
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Location: Coventry, CT
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Keith~
I too, would be interested in the lumber. I work at a middle school in Mansfield, CT...
Bob
My email is: burringtonrj@mansfieldct.org
A project isn't finished, until a FINISH is on it....Bob~
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 1/15/2010
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Location: Haverhill MA
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I am working with a local guy who makes bowls, he has first dibs on some of the logs.
I also have another local guy who is a friend of a friend, that wants some.
After that, I am not sure if I would have ALOT left.
I am thinking if I pay out of pocket to mill these logs on site, as I current intend to, I might keep a few pieces for myself.
After that I would be willing to talk with any of you that posted, if you are still interested.
Bob, I will shoot you an email. Thanks
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 1/15/2010
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Location: Haverhill MA
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SURVEY -
What do you think would be better, to allow the logs to air dry for 4-6 months then mill the logs.
Or would it be better if I milled the logs while still 'green'?
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 6/1/2006
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Location: Connecticut
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This question needs no survey to answer. It is not a matter of debate. Untold centuries of both practical experience and scientific study have already provided us with the correct answer. Mill your logs as soon as you can. Logs that are allowed to dry intact develop internal stresses from tangential shrinkage. These stresses WILL lead to radial cracks, known as checks. The only way to prevent excessive checking is to minimize the stress caused by the tangential shrinking by milling your logs into boards before they dry. Then sticker stack the boards in a dry, weather protected space and let father time work his magic. About one year per inch of board thickness. Sealing the ends of the boards with wax or thick paint will help to reduce end checking by retarding excessive moisture loss from the end grain.
Keith Landin
Woodshop instructor, Woodstock Academy
"Mens tua sit implementum acerrium in fabrica"
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 1/16/2008
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Location: Georgetown/OH
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Paint the ends of the logs. I use cheap oops paint from the local hardware store, but I am told that aluminum roof coat is best. this prevents the moisture from escaping more rapidly out of the ends of the logs and minimizes internal stress.
After milling thwe ends of the boards will need painted for the same reason, so doing it while they are all one piece is actually a lot easier. Once they are painted you can wait quite a while before milling with no problem. If I get back logged my school logs can sometimes lay for a year with no ill effects.
A majority of the material in my shop comes as donated logs, so even though I am too far away to take you up on this offer, thanks for thinking of your schools.
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 2/18/2010
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Location: Salem,NH
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Hi Keith
I am very close to your town if you have any lumber left I am willing to purchase some.
Thanks
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 3/5/2010
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Location: Sudbury MA
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Keith - I'm new to the forum and just saw your post... Yes, I too would be interested in some wood for my students. I can provide the name of a tree surgeon who will give you a discounted price if you use my name (not to sway your decisions any). He's from Westboro but might come up as far as you. Thanks for adding me to the list.
Scott
Lincoln-Sudbury Regional High School
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 2/8/2010
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Location: Canaan NH
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The best thing to do is to coat the ends with a product called Anchor Seal ($$$)as soon as the log is bucked into lenghts but before you mill. You shoud add about 3-6 inches to your intended lenght to accomodate for less than square chainsaw cuts and some end cracking. You can use roof coating or latex paint, certainly better than nothing, but they can stain the wood and make it difficult to see the grain. Once you have milled into slabs or fliches or through and through (leaving a live edge on both sides to maximize future board recovery) If you dont have another end coating around, you can dip the ends of each slab into molten wax, but that can get old very quick if you have larger stock.
stack the wood on bunks that are level to each other and 2 feet apart and put a inch dry wood sticker between each row directly above each bunk. When you are done, cover the top of the pile with weighted metal roofing or a sheet of plywood so that rain wont get the wood wet, but wind can blow through the sides and air dryit. A tarp is a bad idea. Some strap the whole pile with ratchet straps and tighten periodically to help prevent bowing. You may have a local kiln available too if you want the wood sooner or have a critical specific project in mind.
I think it is great you are offering some of the wood to schools, it you were in my town I would take as much wood as you were willing to part with as the student love it.
Dave
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