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Profile: Dean_K
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User Name: Dean_K
Forum Rank: Newbie
Real Name:
Location Los Angeles, CA
Occupation: Wood Tech / Engineering Instructor
Interests: Machinery
Gender: None Specified
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Joined: Sunday, August 20, 2006
Last Visit: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 12:32:16 AM
Number of Posts: 0
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Last 10 Posts
Topic: Help! Who knows about cnc routers?
Posted: Saturday, May 30, 2009 11:12:14 PM
SCMI Pratix and SCMI Action Line are two nice machines I have worked with. They would work well in a school shop. Make sure you get installation, startup, software and training so that when the tech leaves the machine is cutting your parts.
Topic: BIG run on Polyurethane
Posted: Sunday, May 3, 2009 1:03:21 AM
Let it fully dry and put it through a wide belt sander with a 220 grit belt on it. Barely take off any material.
Topic: Laminated skate board decks
Posted: Thursday, March 26, 2009 9:05:19 PM
We started with Titebond I and we applied it to both mating sides. That was too much glue with a lot of drips and runs. Now I use this cool device called a Quick Glue Spreader which puts a hit and miss pattern on the wood and we use some donated Cascorez glue but that Baltic Birch is so dry it soaks up any type of glue you put on it. I imagine a good way to apply it without too much waste would be with a small paint roller.
Topic: Laminated skate board decks
Posted: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:09:44 AM
The late, great Morris Barcroft of Rosemead High School Wood Shop gave me a two part mould he made by laminating about 6 qty. 2" by 6" douglas fir pieces together. He then traced the concave shape of a standard skatrboard on the side and split the block along the line with a band saw. Then he cleaned up both surfaces by sanding and filled any voids with bondo and sanded smooth some more. He drilled some alignment holes and installed some large wood dowels for alignment purposes.

I have used it about 150 times. You have to line the mould with waxed paper so that excess glue does not glue the veneers to the mould. We use six giant bar clamps to clamp the thing together. I have only used the 1/8" baltic birch three thick successfully to make rideable boards. The boards have concave end to end but no side to side concavity. After the blank has dried the kids joint one edge, rip to width, trace shape, drill and countersink holes, band saw external shape, I router the edges with a .125 roundover, then they sand edges, surfaces and decorate and assemble. For like five bucks they have a deck that they can actually ride and abuse.

Mr. Barcroft gave me a more complex vacuum bag setup with a foam mold that veneers are placed over but the veneers are so expensive and the process so tedious that I have not implemented it with the kids.

I would love to have more of the same moulds I already have because only one kid can glue every two hours.
Topic: Finish room ventilation
Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 9:15:50 PM
We have a massive tube that runs into the paint booth in the shop. Inside the center tube near the top is a bladed fan on a shaft that has a pulley on it which moves air up and out of the vent tube. The motor for the fan is outside, several feet away from the vent tube and is a TEFC external duty motor connected with a belt to the fan pulley. If you look in the Grainger or McMaster-Carr catalogs you will see setups like this for sale. Otherwise contact a good HVAC tech and have them set you up. For lighting we just have two double 4 foot fluorescents in sealed fixtures.
Topic: Shop safety course
Posted: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 10:50:48 PM
Sanding by hand and assembly of picture frames?
Topic: Cabinet Door Router Bit
Posted: Thursday, January 22, 2009 9:23:35 PM
Amana?

http://www.amanatool.com/raisedpanel-routerbits.html
Topic: Dangers of Breathing Sawdust
Posted: Thursday, January 22, 2009 9:00:51 PM
Sawdust from solid wood is not as bad for you as sawdust from engineered products especially mdf and other nasties.

Regarding literature....I suggest you just get the material safety data sheets from the company that sells you MDF. If they don't have any MDSs order some MDF from BlueLinx or any other large building supply company and they should have them. You can probably find the info on the internet if you look hard enough. The MDSs from MDF or other worse for you engineered products will clearly describe all the negative effects of breathing dust from these products. Let's say kids are are making speaker boxes from MDF and other items where you use engineered woods as a substrate. You get the picture.

Regarding getting a dust collection system on a budget, I suggest the school purchase a nice used dust collection system at auction as most of them are going unsold at the moment and often they must be removed from facilities upon the end of a lease. I have seen them super cheap on exfactory and ebay as well. As far as cleaning the ambient air, I suggest installing two Smokeeter type particle filters overhead. They use an electrical field to trap dust but they can be improved installing fabric filters ahead of the electric ones. Every time I clean them out I am amazed at how much very light dust I get out of them from machines ten feet below them. Again, dirt cheap on ebay.
Topic: Routing with the aid of Template Guides
Posted: Saturday, January 3, 2009 10:28:21 AM
Hi,

I'm teaching kids who live in an industrial area of greater Los Angeles so my aim is to prepare them for entry level positions operating industrial woodworking machinery. Our manufacturing base here in California is shrinking but is still technologically strong with many firms that are competitive because they constantly are upgrading their equipment. Thus you see a lot of newer CNC machines, automated cutup lines, etc.

Regarding projects done on cnc that can't be done on a hand or inverted router...there are many as you can see below but here is my favorite, an aircraft propeller:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cm_9LmXz4Mk&feature=channel_page

All Vids:

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=SCMGroupBelgium&view=videos
Topic: Routing with the aid of Template Guides
Posted: Friday, January 2, 2009 12:20:43 AM
Hi,

Yes, we have an CR Onsrud 750 SS inverted router ( http://www.cronsrud.com/750ss.html )and we make a hell of a lot of stuff on it. Longboards, shortboards, turkey carving boards, guitar bodies, Christmas ornaments, chair parts, anything with curves. The drawbacks are many compared to a CNC router in my opinion. You can't climb cut safely, you can't change tools while working on the same workpiece and you are limited to three depths of cut. Plus it is super loud when you are really removing a lot of material.

I was recently at the AWPL at Georgia Tech and was totally blown away by the capabilities of a modern CNC router such as SCM Pratix or Morbidelli Action machine. Nested base manufacturing on a CNC has eliminated the need for a sliding table saw or beam saw when cutting cabinet parts from four by eight foot sheet stock. You draw the parts in a CAM program and then dictate the tools to be used. Then just put a sheet onto the vacuum table and let it go to work routing and drilling. When finished, parts get pushed off the CNC router onto an off load table by the machine, then they you edgeband and assemble. If your training kids for jobs in shops that supply cabinets to hotels, high rises and housing tracts then I believe cnc traning is essential in addition to all the manual skills we are already so familiar instilling. Dean

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